The great majority of Cuzco's 300,000 people are Quechua, descendents of the Incas. On first arriving, you might think Cuzco is the queerest city in the world; everywhere rainbow flags are flying. Actually, this colourful striped banner is the Inca Flag - what you are seeing is a display of Quechua Pride  !

But gays and lesbians do find a welcome here, especially at two establishments, both in the San Blas neighbourhood: The Witches' Garden, owned by three gay men from New York, offers delicious food in a romantic setting, while another gay-owned place, the cafe Macondo, serves tropical food in a jungle atmosphere (try the yucca balls) - this is where the local hipsters hang out.

At 11,000 feet above sea level, Cuzco is one of the highest cities in the world, so avoid strenuous activity until you've acclimatized.